Beaune is not the largest town in Burgundy. Far from it, in fact. But it is undoubtedly the most famous. Beaune is considered the capital of Burgundy wines. This small town lies at the heart of some of the most prestigious vineyards in Burgundy, with legendary appellations such as Pommard, Puligny, Montrachet and Meursault. In Beaune, you’ll find plenty of places to taste these wines. Take time out to visit some of the cellars that run beneath the town. Some of them are impressive and stretch for several kilometres.
Hospices de Beaune
But wine is not the only reason to visit Beaune. The town is world-famous for its glazed-roof Hospices de Beaune. This sumptuous monument houses one of the wonders of medieval Flemish art: Rogier van der Weyden’s Last Judgement. This painting alone justifies a visit to Beaune. But there are other buildings that will seduce you during your visit to Beaune. Discover them by strolling through the old town, inside the ramparts.
Just a few kilometres from Chalon-sur-Saône and the Pont de Bourgogne campsite, you’ll discover Tournus, a pretty town famous for its Romanesque abbey and its gourmet restaurants. Tournus boasts several Michelin-starred restaurants. It’s undoubtedly the ideal place to enjoy a fine meal in Burgundy.
Tournus Abbey, a jewel of Romanesque art in Burgundy
The Abbey of Saint-Philibert in Tournus is one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Burgundy and France. To get your first glimpse of the abbey, go to the other side of the river (take the bridge towards Cuisery and turn left, where you can easily park). There, you can admire Tournus and its colourful houses reflected in the water of the Saône. Above the town, you can see the tower of the church of Saint Philibert. Back in the town centre, you can visit the abbey church. Built between the 10th and 12th centuries, this well-preserved church is a marvel of Romanesque art in Burgundy.
Because of its location, Chalon sur Saône has always been a commercial centre. In the Middle Ages, its fairs were highly reputed. Today, the town remains a pleasant stop-off point where you can savour the Burgundian art of living.
Around Saint-Vincent cathedral
Chalon-sur-Saône town centre is centred around Saint-Vincent cathedral, whose towering silhouette dominates the old town. This recently restored cathedral overlooks the Place St Vincent. This square, with its pretty half-timbered houses, is named after the patron saint of winegrowers – hardly surprising in this wine country. A statue of the saint can be seen on the corner of the square opposite the cathedral (above the Majorelle café-restaurant).
The cathedral dates back to the 6th century. Very little remains from that period, however, as it was rebuilt in the 12th century in Romanesque style. Its neo-Gothic towers were added in the 19th century. The interior has some fine architectural features and is well worth a visit. Its 14th-century cloister is of great beauty, but unfortunately it is not open to the public outside of organised tours or Heritage Days.
The square below the cathedral is lined with pretty timber-framed houses dating from the 15th-18th centuries. This square is the heart of the city when the fine weather returns. It is home to cafés and restaurants every day of the week, and on Friday and Sunday mornings there is a very pleasant market. Make sure you organise your stay at camping du Pont de Bourgogne so you can enjoy this market.
The pedestrian precinct in Chalon-sur-Saône
From the Place Saint Vincent, pedestrianised streets form a pedestrianised shopping area. This area is made up of old timber-framed buildings. Look up to see medallions or gargoyles on their façades. At the junction of rue du Chatelet and rue Saint-Vincent, there is a wooden replica of a statue of Christ by Michelangelo. There is, however, a very Burgundian addition: snails! Among the facades of interest are the theatre on rue aux Fèvres and the Maison des 4 Saisons at 37 rue du Chatelet.
Around Chalon-sur-Saône Town Hall
The pedestrian area leads to one of the Burgundy town’s other lively spots: the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. This square, recognisable by the modern design of its lampposts, is also a very pleasant place to be in spring and summer, even if it has no monuments of real historical interest apart from the church of Saint Pierre, built in the 17th century. The square hosts a market on Wednesday mornings.
The quays of the Saône
Not far from the pedestrian precinct or the town hall, the river Saône flows by. Its quays are a pleasant place to stroll. Here you will find the Niepce Museum, dedicated to Chalon’s most famous son, Nicéphore Niepce, who invented photography. This museum, dedicated to photography in all its forms, includes cameras from the pioneers of photography as well as more recent objects such as a camera inherited from the Apollo programme. The temporary exhibitions are generally of a very high standard. Admission to the Musée de la Photographie de Chalon-sur-Saône is free. From the quays, you can see Ile Saint Laurent on the other side of the Saône.
Ile St Laurent and its restaurants
This island in the middle of the Saône is the island of restaurants. Its central street is home to a large number of restaurants. It becomes pedestrianised with the arrival of fine weather and terraces. At the tip of this island is a brick tower: the Tour du Doyenné. This tower dates back to the 15th century, but was only rebuilt in its current position after the First World War. It originally stood next to the cathedral. Not far from the tower is the Chalon sur Saône hospital. Its beautiful apothecary is one of the city’s most interesting sights, as is its chapel.
The geo-botanical garden
Not far from the town centre, you’ll also find the geo-botanical park. Located next to a vast aviary housing birds, guinea pigs and even a wild boar, this park, better known to the people of the Chalonnais as the “deer park”, is an original garden that displays plants according to their native environment: the Bresse marshes, the Chalonnais coast, the vegetation of the Morvan, Alpine and Mediterranean plants, etc.
Chalon dans la Rue, street theatre festival
Chalon dans la Rue is a major event in the life of Chalon. Every year, on the third weekend in July (from Thursday to Sunday evening), Chalon hosts the biggest street theatre festival in France, with dozens of troupes performing on the streets of Chalon. It’s a great way to discover the town, especially as some of the performances encourage you to visit little-known but surprising places. Not for those who prefer a more leisurely pace.
